Builth Wells (Llanfair-ym-Muallt), Wales - Day 3

Sunday, June 15

For the life of us, we can't see how they get Builth Wells from Llanfair-ym-Muallt but that's Wales for you!

This morning the weather looked nice and although rain was forecast for around 5pm, we decided to stick with our plan to visit the Élan Valley. The Élan Valley is owned by Welsh Water and it's primary function is the provision of a clean water supply so it is managed in a very environmentally friendly way to protect the water quality. This means the valley has an abundance of wildlife, birds and flora and the public are encouraged to enjoy its natural history and beauty.

Noelle outside the Élan Valley Visitor Centre

We were so impressed when we arrived at the Visitor Centre and saw the excellent displays and videos on the walks available, the terrain and what flora & fauna is found in each type of terrain, a history of the area and the need for dams in the first place, then the construction of them.

Back in the mid to late 1800's with the increase in industry, Birmingham's population had dramatically increased but without an adequate supply of water, sanitation was poor and disease increased so the hunt was on for a supply of clean water. Engineers found the perfect place to build a dam in the Élan Valley because the valley was narrow so would fill easily and was high enough for water to be gravity fed to Birmingham. The Victorians loved beautiful structures so the dam walls, bridges and buildings are really great looking structures and quite ornate by today's standards. Ever resourceful, the Victorian engineers also built two turbine houses below the dam to produce electricity from the water.

The Caban Coch Dam Wall

Looking down on one of the Turbine Houses

We decided on two short walks of a couple of miles each - one downstream and one upstream that took us to the Caban Coch Dam. Both walks took us through glorious woodlands - some oak and some birch - and the vibrant greens of the foliage and lichen on trunks and rocks were highlighted when the sun shone through. It really was breathtakingly beautiful and the greens were so different to what we see at home. Also, because it is Spring, wildflowers were out everywhere in pinks, mauves, deep purples, yellow, red, orange and white so it really was a riot of colour in places.

Magnificent greens in the Woods

Al with the beautiful stone Élan Village in the background - part of our second walk

(This village was built in 1909 and replaced the wooden Navvies Huts used by the dam builders)

It was so peaceful walking with only the bird sounds and crunch of stones beneath our feet. In some places the path was quite steep and there were a few very steep sections with rock steps. We actually didn't see that many birds but could certainly hear them. Along the path a number of information boards told us what to look out for and we found them really helpful. A number of little tits and swallows were darting around and we were amazed to read on the board that these tiny little birds fly south all the way to Africa in Autumn!

One of the helpful Information Boards

Wildflowers along the path (Heather & Broom)

On our return to the Visitor Centre after the first walk, we had a quick lunch before starting on the second walk. After all that exercise (or so we told ourselves), we felt entitled to a fantastically creamy local ice-cream made by Conti's. Al felt obligated to try one because one of his Telstra mates - Mario - has the surname Conti! I personally didn't need any excuse nor did I feel any guilt - well not a lot anyway! (That will come tomorrow morning when yet another pair of jeans is more difficult to zip up).

A lovely bridge across the Pen y Garreg Reservoir

The Reservoir's ornate Victorian era Water Tower

We then picked up a driving map for the valley and drove to see the other two dams - the Pen y Garreg Dam and the Craig Goch Dam. Their walls were more ornate than the first dam and we loved the way the designers had placed blocks in rows across the face of the walls so that as the water rushed over the wall, it cascaded very attractively like a natural waterfall. Again, true to form for us on this trip with waterless harbours, waterways, etc., water was only falling over one of the dam walls and the other two were dry! Still, it gave us the chance to see how lovely the dam walls were.

Water cascading over Pen y Garreg Dam

Although the sky looked threatening quite a few times, the sun kept breaking through and we made it back to Smithfield Farm without a drop of rain falling. It is so peaceful sitting here looking out across the meadow at the mist starting to roll in over the hills and watching a Red Kite bird circling overhead eyeing off the freshly mown meadow for "goodies". We will be very sad to leave this place.

A Red Kite circling over the meadow in front of our "home"

 

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