Shanghai to Melbourne

Wednesday & Thursday, August 6-7

It's been a very long day!

We checked out of Xijiao State Guest Hotel around 10.00am and caught a cab to Hongqiao Airport in Shanghai for our 1.20pm flight to Hong Kong to later connect with our 7.10pm flight to Melbourne. We were interested to see more smog about than we had so far experienced. Obviously, the rain and wind associated with the edge of the typhoon that lashed Japan over the weekend had blown most of it away but now that the weather was more settled and the wind had dropped, smog was building up. We enjoyed the 20 minute trip to the airport and took in our final glimpses of this amazing city. Most of Shanghai's buildings have been erected in the last 10-20 years so it has a very modern and unusual skyline. Architects have designed huge skyscrapers but have included traditional Chinese shapes in many of them. Of a night, when all the lights are on, it is an absolute kaleidoscope with a lot of lights moving up and down buildings while others flash advertising logos, etc. - all very colourful and bright. We have always thought Hong Kong an amazing sight at night but Shanghai would equal or better it.

On arrival at the airport, we checked our bag (note - only singular this time) and made our way through Chinese Immigration. None of this took long so we had a few hours to enjoy a cup of coffee and browse the airport shops. About an hour later, an announcement was made (in Chinglish), that our flight "could not make schedule". It was now appearing on the Departures Board at 2.30pm instead of 1.20pm. As there was plenty of time to make the two hour flight to HK and still connect with our flight to Australia, we were not concerned. Closer to 2.00pm a further announcement was made re our flight not "making schedule" and it disappeared from the Departures Board altogether. There did not appear to be any other non-Chinese passengers and with our grasp of the Chinese language non-existent, we had difficulty in finding out what was going on. Al found someone in Ground Staff with limited English, who told him that our flight had indeed arrived from Hong Kong but had gone to the other Shanghai Airport an hour and a half away. It was picking up passengers there then flying to Hongqiao - very strange! We waited another hour or so then a very agitated Chinese lady rushed into our gate lounge area saying we had to make our way to another area where we had to collect our baggage then be bused to the other airport. Oh to speak at least some Chinese to know what was going on! After collecting our baggage, we had to go back through Chinese Immigration to have our exit stamp cancelled then the bunfight truly began. A bus arrived and the driver opened the luggage holds. It was push and shove as people threw their luggage into the holds in any old fashion then scrambled to get on the bus. It was obvious we were going to fill at least three buses but the need to be on the first bus seemed of paramount importance to our fellow passengers. The end result was that luggage was on one bus and, in quite a few cases, the related passenger was unable to get a seat on the same bus. Lots of shouting, pushing and shoving ensued until the arrival of the second bus then the procedure was repeated - at least with only two thirds of the passengers this time. We couldn't understand why some queue bollards were not set up and people let onto buses one at a time in an orderly fashion but what would we know in China! We finally got seats on the third bus - along with our luggage, and settled in for the hour and a quarter drive to Pudong Airport. There was now no chance we would be connecting with our scheduled flight to Australia so we decided to sit back and enjoy the sightseeing and worry about the flight home later.

 

 

On arrival at Pudong Airport, we joined the long and very slow-moving queue to be re-ticketed. We were finally ticketed on a flight departing at 7.00pm and Al was also ticketed on a flight from HK to Australia at 12.10am but not moi! I was told that a seat had been requested for me but I would have to report to Cathay Ground Staff on arrival at HK. As it was then 6.45pm and we still had to go through Chinese Immigration for a new exit stamp, it was a mad rush to get to the Gate in time. We literally fell into our seats, tired and hungry, but glad to be heading home. The flight was uneventful and we arrived in HK in plenty of time to get to Cathay's counter re my seat home. Thankfully, a seat was then available and the very nice clerk did some rearranging so that Al & I could sit next to each other. We also found out that the delays in Shanghai had been caused by restricted airspace for Chinese military exercises. Given the recent tragedy over Ukraine, we were happy to be late!

Sadly, the delays did not end there. Once in our seats on the flight to Australia, the pilot informed us that they were having trouble with some of the navigation equipment and a new part had to be fitted. He was pleased though, to let us know that the part was available and should only take 45 minutes or so to repair!! Good grief - thank goodness we can both sleep reasonably well on planes as it was 1.30am by the time we taxied out for take-off. Not long into the flight, the pilot made another announcement saying that military exercises were being conducted over northern Australia and we would be re-routed adding another 30 minutes or so to our flight. Oh well, what's another 30 minutes in the whole scheme of things!

We finally touched down at Tullamarine around 1.30pm and walked in our front door at 2.30pm. As we had been up for well over 30 hours, we decided to do a bit of shopping, unpack the main things then have a "quick sleep" (for an hour and a half) before heading off to Bible School for a 7.00pm start. Amazingly, both of us felt quite good and managed to stay awake right through lectures but were very glad to finally crawl into bed around 11.00pm. It's always good to be home and in your own bed!

 

 

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Shanghai - Day 6

Tuesday, August 5

This morning we said goodbye to Mum, Heather, Neville and Maree who were on flights leaving from the nearby airport just after 1pm. Colin, Lorraine, Clare, Angus and their 2 little girls were going to Karen's parents place to leave their bags for the day as they were not flying out until 6pm together with Nick and Karen, Rachel and Nick and John and Judy. We fly tomorrow so we had an extra day to ourselves.

We decided to check out a museum and some shops, and generally have a quiet day compared to the hectic schedule of the last 5 days, and also to eat some Western food! We've had some delicious Chinese banquets, but 2 a day for the last 4 days has done us in. It was also another hot day so we didn't want to push ourselves.

We caught a taxi and not far from where we're staying saw the sculpture of plastic flowers that Noelle asked our guide Michael about on Friday. It has certainly been a good landmark and quite quirky.

 

We were heading for the Propaganda Poster Art Museum, which was recommended by the two Nick's, and after a bit of a walk we found it in the basement of a residential building complex. This is a private museum consisting of posters saved from destruction as the political winds in China changed along with various leaders after Mao Tse Tung. It was amazing to see the posters which covered the period 1949 - 1990 as we have lived through this period and can remember Mao's Little Red Book, the Great Leap Forward and the Cultural Revolution. There were also posters of Shanghai Ladies from the 1930s which really show how open Shanghai was to westerners due to the influence of the British and French as well as the Art Deco movement. We weren't allowed to take photos so we've included photos of the brochures we picked up.

You could see the power of propaganda and fear of contradicting the State as people were basically brain washed to believe their way was the best and the West was evil. Fortunately these extreme views have moderated since TV and now the Internet have exposed the Chinese people to different points of view even though there is still censorship in China as we've found out. Neither Facebook nor Google work here, so we haven't been able to post our blogs on a daily basis!

We opted for a toasted sandwich, cake and iced coffee for lunch, then set off to explore the French concession on foot. We passed some lovely colonial buildings on large estates which all appeared to be owned by the State, as well as the usual array of motor scooters carrying loads of materials which just wouldn't be allowed at home. Our favorite was a balloon seller!

 

Crossing the road here means taking your life in your own hands (or feet) as traffic signals are taken as suggestions only by the drivers, so you need to have your wits about you. We had to cross a 3 way junction at a big intersection and we managed to do this successfully.

During our walk along Huashan Road we passed Huashan Greenland, a large park that provided relief from the heat of the afternoon, and we couldn't resist taking a photo of the "Chinglish" signboard as it described the park as being in the shape of a handgun!

 

We used some of the shops to cool down before wandering on a bit further, but after a couple of hours of this we decided to head back to our hotel as we had to pack and prepare to head home. We ate in the Bistro in our hotel and chose to have an early night in our nice, comfortable bed as we'll be sleeping on the plane tomorrow night on the flight home.

The lobby and Bistro at Xijiao State Guest Hotel

Pianist entertaining us in the lobby

 

 

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Shanghai - Day 5

Monday, August 4

Today was forecast to be sunny and hot, and they were right. It was about 85C when we set off in the bus at 8:30 to drive to Zhujiajiao Ancient Watertown about 40 minutes away in the countryside outside of Shanghai. Our tour guide for the day was Jack, a young guy who was very personable and funny. There were 12 adults and 2 children in the Walker touring party today.

Jack explaining about the Watertown as we start the tour

When we arrived it was a lot hotter and as we followed Jack around everyone was looking to be on the shady side of the narrow walkways. This was made difficult by the electric motor scooters coming from both directions, beeping their horns to let us know they wanted to get through. Although we were walking alongside a canal it certainly wasn't Venice, but because it was a Monday the place wasn't very crowded.

Window shopping as we walk along a canal

 

Along the way we saw the main pagoda in the town, as well as going into many buildings to see how the people lived and also the crafts that the people used to do in those buildings, some of which are still practiced to this day. In one of them there was a model of the whole town, but not from 1,000 years ago when the town was first occupied, it was a more recent model.

The pagoda at Watertown

A model of the Watertown

 

Despite walking through magnificent gardens and grounds, with lakes and water features in between buildings and rookeries, the temperature was climbing but it wasn't much cooler in the buildings, so the ladies were madly fanning themselves while the guys poured water into their hats. We came across a field planted with rice and surrounded by old farming equipment, and we were all glad we weren't farmers in this part of the world!

An oasis at last

We managed to find a cool spot while we waited for a boat to take us on the canal to lunch (and save our legs), and Rachel and Nick kindly bought icy poles for everyone which definitely hit the spot. Five week old Imogen couldn't have one but her mum Clair took good care of her - Imogen didn't complain at all she is such a good baby.

On our way to lunch

 

Even the locals were having a quiet day in the heat and made the most of "siesta" when they could.

 

After lunch we had some free time to shop, and after a few bartered purchases everyone was happy to head back to the hotel to cool down with a shower in air conditioned surrounds. We had 2 hours to recuperate before we were off to another dinner before a Chinese acrobatic show.

We were all hanging out for some good dumplings and we weren't disappointed with tonight's meal. It was at a well known restaurant that specializes in Xiao Lon Bao and other dumpling treats, and they were fabulous. Noelle gave us a special treat - a photo op of her holding baby Imogen!

Fortunately the Acrobatic show was in the same complex, so we just had to go up 2 flights of escalators to reach the theatre where the show was. It was an excellent show, with amazing feats of balance, juggling, strength, co-ordination, flexibility, gymnastics and some comedy. The audience participation segment was a highlight, as Angus (Clare's husband and father of Savannah and Imogen) was picked from the audience for the knife throwing act. He was a real trouper and didn't flinch at all, but the blind fold helped. It wasn't until after the show that we showed him a video and he could see how "dangerous" it was - not! That was why we were all laughing so much at his expense of not knowing they were faking throwing the knives. It was a great way to end another fabulous day of family bonding as we experienced more of the Chinese culture.

 

 

 

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Shanghai - Day 4

Sunday, August 3

Following the full day of wedding events yesterday everyone appreciated a sleep in and a later start to today's activities. We left for lunch about 11:30am to go to a restaurant near Karen's parents place, and the Walker Family was joined by the extended Qin family so we had a private room in a huge restaurant complex. The banquet was about 30 courses of cold, hot and sweet dishes, but they were shared plates so you didn't have to have more than a mouthful or two of each dish (fortunately)!

Sunday lunch with our Chinese family, the Qins

After lunch we went to Karen's parents (John and Judy) apartment for tea, and with so many people it was standing room only! Their apartment is only about 3 years old and was part of a multi block complex like most of the accommodation here in Shanghai. We met some of Karen's relatives who had flown in from Paris (where they live), and it was good to feel part of an extended family in another country.

The building where John and Judy live

Karen's cousin Anne from Paris

 

We were then driven to East Nanjing Road for some shopping, as we had 2 hours before we had to leave for our evening boat cruise and another banquet meal. It was very hot and humid, and Al's mum and sister Heather don't cope well in these conditions so we chose the air conditioned malls as much as possible. There were heaps of people out and about and it was quite hectic, so after a while we decided to cool off with an iced coffee until it was time to head to the boat.

We arrived at the boat about 6pm, but it didn't leave until 7, so dinner was served before we left. This meal, another 30 course banquet, included some dishes we've had before on this trip but also some new ones like abalone, jellyfish, tripe, braised silverside, Shanghai buns, codfish soup, coconut creme buns, and a few others but we can't remember their names. By the time we got through this meal the boat had started to move as evening was setting in and the lights were getting brighter.

Boarding our boat for the dinner cruise

Working our way through another banquet

We moved from our private dining compartment to the outside deck to take in the glorious sight of Shanghai by night from the Huangpu River. Building after building was lit up in all the colours of the rainbow, many with advertisements on the sides of the buildings and others with changing colour displays and lots of twinkling lights. Lots of photos and videos were taken, but only a few could be included here!

The newly married couple

Looking towards the Bund at night

 

Despite the late start everyone was happy to head straight home and have an early night in preparation of another full day of sightseeing tomorrow.

 

 

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Shanghai - Day 3

Saturday, August 2

Today is scheduled to be a big day - the big day - Nick & Karen's Wedding and the reason we are in Shanghai. We have an early start with the Traditional Wedding Tea Ceremony at 9.30 am followed by lunch then the wedding service at 4.00 pm followed by the cocktail reception and then, as the itinerary is worded, "those of us with enough energy can board the special bus for the after party at a Shanghai Night Club". For once we think it's a blessing to be over 60!

After another sumptuous breakfast in the hotel dining room, we returned to our rooms to dress in our outfits "preferably not black or white but with at least a dash of red". We then headed for Nick & Karen's suite where the Tea Ceremony was to be held. Our great niece, Savannah, aged 3 and a half - and the flower girl this afternoon, had a gorgeous little red dress on especially for the Tea Ceremony but was overwhelmed with all the attention and developed acute camera shyness (not augering well for this afternoon). It is traditional in Shanghai for the groom and groomsmen to meet certain challenges set by the bridesmaids before being allowed to enter the room for the Tea Ceremony. If the bridesmaids don't feel the challenges are met well enough, one of the red envelopes containing varying amounts of money and carried by the groomsmen, must be handed over - a novel way for the bridesmaids to recoup some of the costs of their outfits!

Last minute grooming for Savannah before the Tea Ceremony

Even 5 week old Imogen (Savannah's baby sister) had an outfit with "a dash of red"

Nick had to answer a number of questions relating to his and Karen's meeting, dating and engagement. He got one date wrong so had to pay up. The next challenge involved Nick and his groomsmen having to sing and dance to a song chosen by the bridesmaids. In this case, the "Barbie" song was selected and the boys had to put on tu-tu's for their performance. They passed with flying colours but the girls still deemed it necessary for another red envelope to be handed over. Another challenge involved all the boys doing push ups (in their wedding outfits). A number of other challenges followed and after each, the proverbial red envelope was handed over. It seemed quite a lucrative deal for the girls.

Nick and his Groomsmen listen to instructions from the Bridesmaids for their next "challenge"

Preparations for the "Barbie" challenge

After all the frivoloties, the Tea Ceremony began. This was our first sighting of Karen who had been locked away in the bedroom during the "challenges". She was dressed in a glorious red traditional Chinese outfit. She and Nick knelt on the floor and offered tea to her parents seated opposite. The parents reciprocated by handing over another red envelope and giving some encouraging words to the bride and groom. This procedure was repeated for both sets of Karen's grandparents then Nick's parents - Col & Lorraine, and finally with Mum Walker - Nick's nana. By this stage we were all nearly expiring with the heat generated by so many people in the room and were happy to be able to "escape".

Nick & Karen offer tea to Nana (Mum Walker)

There were more formalities for the bride and groom and parents but the rest of us had an hour or so of free time before lunch. Xijiao State Guest Hotel is situated in acres and acres of botanical gardens but, as the weather was so wet, we all passed on the suggested "wander through the gardens" and opted for a cuppa in our room. It was fun being together as family and we all voted the cuppa in our room was the right choice.

In our wedding finery

We lunched in the hotel's bistro then had an hour or so's rest before getting into our wedding finery. We only had a short walk through part of the hotel's grounds to reach the Flowers Ballroom where the wedding and reception were to take place. The decor in the Ballroom was beautiful and the tall table centre pieces of Japanese Maple and trailing white flowers in typical Chinese style looked marvelous. Drinks and canapés were served while we awaited Karen and her attendants' arrival. We were then called to take our seats and the service began in typical western fashion with the groom and groomsmen standing at the front and the bridesmaids entering one by one from the back followed by the bride and her very proud father. Karen looked sensational in a "big" ivory dress. She is a very petite girl so looked really lovely. Her bridesmaids wore very soft, pale green coloured dresses and all carried cream posies. Our niece, Rachael (one of Nick's sisters) was a bridesmaid and she walked hand in hand down the aisle with our great niece, Savannah - the "reluctant photographee!"

Colin & Lorraine - Nick's parents, in the Flowers Ballroom foyer where the service was held

Formal Photo outside the Flowers Ballroom

Everything went without a hitch and it was a really lovely, friendly, informal service. Claire (Nick's other sister and also mother of the flower girl) did the reading so the Aussie side were well represented. All the usual photos followed while we continued to enjoy more champagne and canapés as well as meet our new "Chinese family". We then filed into the reception area where we were introduced to the new Mr & Mrs Walker and their attendants and parents. We were then served an amazing 10 course Chinese/Western meal that even Mum Walker really enjoyed (despite many anxious weeks worrying about "eating Chinese food" and bringing cheese & biscuit packs from Australia - just in case!)

Savannah with some of her "new Aunties"

A special dance - Karen with her dad and Nick with his mum

 

Lots of chatter, dancing and heartfelt speeches followed. Speeches were sub-titled on a screen in either Chinese or English depending on who was speaking. It was a lovely wedding and we were all very glad to have been a part of it. It was great to see Nick and Karen so happy too. We wish them all the very best for their new life together as husband and wife and in their new jobs in Los Angeles.

This wedding caper can all get a bit much when you're only 3 and a half!

Tomorrow we have an 11.30 am start with lunch at a restaurant near Karen's parent's home followed by tea at their home so we are all looking forward to that along with a well-deserved sleep in!

 

 

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Shanghai, Day 2

Friday, August 1

When we looked outside this morning it was pouring with rain, and we heard there was a big typhoon over Asia and we were on the fringe of it in Shanghai, with heavy rain expected for the next 2 days as a result. This didn't bother us as we met our tour guide Michael and boarded a bus to tour the city sites today. However the rain did slow the traffic down and we crawled along the freeway into town. Along the way we passed some amazing architecture with most of the new buildings being built in the last 20-30 years.

Rain, traffic and skyscrapers in Shanghai

There appeared to be a break in the rain, so Michael recommended we go to the Jin Mao Tower first instead of later on our tour. This tower has a lookout on the 88th floor, and the high speed lifts got us there in 45 seconds - sadly, but not surprisingly, when we got there it was a white out! Fortunately the wind had picked up and was blowing the clouds along at a good pace, so every now and then we caught a glimpse of the view.

Below is what we would have seen on a clear day!!

Consequently there were lots of photos taken inside the observation deck.

The Grand Hyatt Hotel is also located in the tower between the 56th and 88th floors, and their lobby on the 56th floor is the highest hotel lobby in the world. The view looking down at it was great.

View of Grand Hyatt Hotel lobby from the 88th floor observation deck.

Next was a stop at the Peace Hotel that was built and owned by Sir Victor Sassoon in the 1920s, and is now run as a Fairmont Hotel. During its history it has certainly accommodated lots of famous politicians, heads of state and entertainers, and had a real Art Deco feel to it.

Noelle in the lobby of the Peace Hotel

On the way to our next stop we had to walk through an old style shopping and market area and, as it was approaching lunchtime, there were lots of food vendors waiting for the lunchtime rush. However the guy selling what looked like sparrows on a skewer was making sure he was well rested after cooking up his offerings. We weren't even tempted to try them!!

This icecream shop was unique and tempting, but as we were close to lunch we decided against trying one today. Maybe another day!

Our next stop was the famous Yuyuan Gardens that date back to the Ming Dynasty (16th C), with lots of the original buildings still standing where the family who owned the property used to live. Much of their furnishings can also be seen. Following are some pics from these gardens:

The Walker touring party at Yuyuan Garden

(Al, Rachael, Maree, Lorraine, Noelle, Heather, Neville, Mum, Colin, Claire with Imogen, Nick and Angus with camera-shy flower girl, Savannah)

After a delicious lunch we were taken to a tea ceremony in a pearl wholesaler's shop and, after trying 3 or 4 teas, we were invited to look at the pearls in the shop. Noelle was very tempted but resisted! We were also given some free time to look around the shopping complex but any interest shown here meant an instant invite inside (more like pressure, pressure, pressure) to look around and try something on or, more importantly, buy. Fortunately the deadline to get back on the bus got us out of any impulse purchases but we did have one particularly persistent seller follow us all the way back to our bus spruiking all the way until we finally got into the bus.

Tasting tea at the tea ceremony

Back on the bus we were taken to see the British and French concessions that have largely been gentrified with trendy shops and restaurants and are now very expensive real estate. It was then time to head back to the Xijiao State Guest Hotel, and as it was peak time, the traffic was bumper to bumper in both directions so it was another slow trip. At least it gave us time to get some more photos of the old and new architecture which is reshaping the Shanghai skyline.

Soviet style building from the 1950s

Old temple amidst modern buildings

On our return, we only had a short break before it was time to go out for dinner with the Walker family, Karen's parents (John & Judy Qin), some of the bridal party who had arrived from Australia and the USA, and Nick and Karen. We went to a well regarded restaurant and enjoyed a delicious meal, trying lots of dishes we had never tried before. Thankfully, most proved to be what they were called but one or two remain a mystery. Tomorrow is Wedding Day so as it will be a really big day we were all happy to have another fairly early night.

 

 

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